Ceramides are essential lipids naturally present in the skin, crucial for maintaining a healthy skin barrier.  Functionally, ceramides bind skin cells together just like mortar between bricks, sealing the walls together to form a strong layer, essentially locking moisture in while shielding out external invaders such as microbes, pollutants, and other irritants.

Ceramides level naturally decreases as we age, leading to characteristic signs of aging such as wrinkles, dryness, and various associated skin dysfunction.  Additionally, regular skin care practices that we would call “normal” routines, such as hot showers, exfoliating, and scrubbing contribute to ceramide breakdown, not to mention external factors such as intense sun exposure, pollution, and dry cold weather. 

For these reasons, it is important to top-up our ceramide levels everyday to reinforce the skin barrier.  While our body naturally makes its own ceramides, our skin demands high levels and multiple types of ceramides which enables it to perform its specialized barrier role.

Understanding Ceramides: Types and Structure

Ceramides are lipid molecules comprising a sphingoid base backbone linked to a fatty acid via an amide bond. Their amphiphilic nature allows them to form lipid bilayers in the skin's outermost layer, essential for maintaining hydration and protecting against environmental stressors.

There are as many as twenty-five (25) known types of ceramides across sixteen (16) class variations of long-chain base sphingoid backbone in combination with different long-chain fatty acids and functional groups attached to the backbone via an amide bond.  However, only a few types are known to be the most abundant forms found in the skin, thus making them highly relevant in skin care formulations:

• Ceramide EOS: Esterified Omega-hydroxy Sphingosine: Important for barrier repair and hydration.

• Ceramide NS: Non-hydroxy Sphingosine. Enhances skin hydration and barrier function.

• Ceramide NP: Non-hydroxy Phytosphingosine. Improves barrier function.

• Ceramide EOH: Esterified Omega-hydroxy Hydroxysphingosine. Helps bolster the skin barrier and reduce water loss.

• Ceramide AS: Alpha-hydroxy 6-Hydroxysphingosine. Supports skin barrier integrity.

• Ceramide AP: Alpha-hydroxy Phytosphingosine. Known for its reparative properties and skin texture improvement.

Understanding each type of ceramides will help in using the right kind in formulating your desired products.  DKSH presents you Luna-PC Ceramides with five of the most powerful, skin-identical forms of ceramides in their pure formats to help in your formulation journey:

LUNA-PC CeraAP

Luna-PC CeraAP is Ceramide 6, formerly know under the INCI name Ceramide 6 II, the N-acylated sphingolipid consisting of Phytosphingosine having the D-erythro structure linked to an alpha-hydroxy saturated or unsaturated fatty acid.

Ceramide AP is a specific type of ceramide that plays an important role in maintaining the health and integrity of the skin.

1. Barrier Function: Ceramide AP contributes to the lipid barrier of the skin. It helps to strengthen the outmost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, which acts as a barrier to prevent moisture loss and protect the skin from external irritants.

2. Hydration: Ceramide AP, along with other ceramides, plays a key role in retaining moisture within the skin. It helps to keep the skin hydrated for overall skin health. It contributes to the maintenance of skin elasticity and suppleness, promoting a healthy and youthful appearance.

3. Anti-aging: As part of the ceramide family, ceramide AP is associated with anti-aging benefits.

LUNA-PC CeraNP 3 (Ceramide NP, Ceramide 3)

LUNA-PC CeraNP 3B (Ceramide NP, Ceramide 3B)

Luna-PC CeraNP 3 and Luna-PC CeraNP 3B are a class of lipid molecules that are natural component of the skin's structure. It plays an important role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, retain skin moisture, anti-pollution, anti-aging, and overall health. Improves the scale of the hair cuticle, restores the natural properties of the hair.

1. Barrier Function: Ceramide 3 helps to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier. The outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, is composed of lipids, including ceramides. This barrier helps prevent moisture loss and protects the skin from environmental factors.

2. Moisture Retention: Ceramides, including Ceramide 3, contribute to the skin’s ability to retain moisture. They help to lock in hydration, keeping the skin supple and preventing dryness.

3. Protection Against Irritants: The barrier function provided by ceramides helps protect the skin from irritants and environmental pollutants. It can reduce the risk of inflammation and sensitivity.

4. Anti Aging: Ceramides play a role in maintaining the skin’s elasticity and firmness.

In addition to these three classes of ceramides that are most abundant in the skin, LUNA by DKSH offers sphingoid bases that support proliferation of ceramides in the skin:

LUNA-PC PHS

Luna-PC PHS (Phytosphingosine) is a type of spingoid base, a component found in the lipid layer of the skin. It plays a role in maintaining the skin’s barrier function. Phytosphingosine contributes to the formation of the skin’s lipid barrier, which is essential for preventing water loss and protecting the skin from external irritants. A healthy barrier function is important for maintaining skin hydration.

Phytosphingosine primarily functions as a humectant, antioxidant, and skin conditioner in cosmetics and skincare products. In skincare products, phytospingosine is often included to support the skin’s natural barrier functions. It is a versatile ingredient with benefits for various skin types.  Additionally, Phytosphingosine exhibits antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial in preventing and treating skin conditions such as acne.

LUNA-PC TAPS

Luna-PC TAPS (Tetraacetylphytosphingosine) is a modified form of phytoshingosine, which is a component found in the lipid layer of the skin and known for:

1. Moisturizing and Repairing the Skin: TAPS functions as a lipid source, contributing to the water-locking barrier of the skin's outer layer, the stratum corneum. This helps to increase the overall ceramide content in the skin, which is crucial for maintaining skin hydration and preventing dehydration by bolstering the skin's barrier function.

2. Improving Dark Circles: TAPS has been found to inhibit the formation and leakage of capillaries. This action can be beneficial in improving the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.

3. Promoting Skin Cell Regeneration and Repair: TAPS is also known to promote the regeneration and repair of skin cells. It stimulates the synthesis of important structural proteins like collagen and elastic fibers, which are vital for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.

In summary, ceramides provide the following benefits:

Barrier Integrity and Repair: Ceramides are essential for forming a cohesive and resilient skin barrier. They help establish the multilamellar structure of the lipid bilayers, which are critical for preventing water loss and protecting against external irritants. Studies have shown that formulations containing ceramides significantly improve skin barrier function in individuals with conditions like atopic dermatitis, highlighting their ability to enhance barrier repair and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Lipid Organization: The unique structures of ceramides enable effective interaction with other skin lipids such as cholesterol and free fatty acids, maintaining the optimal organization and fluidity of the lipid bilayers.

Hydration and Moisturization: By reinforcing the skin's barrier, ceramides help retain moisture, preventing dryness and maintaining skin hydration. This is particularly important for individuals with dry or sensitive skin types. Research has demonstrated that the topical application of ceramide-enriched moisturizers results in improved skin hydration and reduced symptoms of dry skin conditions.

Pollution Barrier: The robust barrier function provided by ceramides protects the skin from environmental pollutants, reducing the penetration of harmful substances and minimizing oxidative stress and inflammation.

Applications in Personal Care

Moisturizers and Creams: Moisturizers and creams incorporate ceramides to address dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. Ceramides are essential bioactive lipids that restore the skin's lipid barrier, improving hydration and reducing dryness. Their inclusion enhances skin resilience, making it smoother and more supple, thus appealing to consumers seeking effective solutions for dehydrated skin.

Anti-Aging Formulations: Ceramides are critical in anti-aging products due to their ability to strengthen the skin barrier, maintain elasticity, and ensure lasting hydration. They help reduce fine lines and wrinkles while providing protection against environmental aggressors. This makes ceramide-infused products highly desirable for those looking to prevent premature aging and maintain youthful, firm skin.

Dermatological Treatments: Ceramide-enriched products are often recommended for eczema and psoriasis patients. These conditions involve a compromised skin barrier, leading to increased sensitivity and moisture loss. Ceramides help repair the barrier, reduce inflammation, and alleviate symptoms like itching and redness, offering significant relief and improved quality of life for affected individuals.

Hair Care - Shampoos and Conditioners: In hair care, ceramides strengthen the hair shaft, reduce breakage, and enhance moisture retention. They are vital in formulations aimed at repairing damaged hair, providing increased shine and smoothness. Ceramides help maintain the hair's lipid balance, preventing dryness and frizz, making them a key ingredient in premium hair care products.

The incorporation of ceramides in personal care products underscores their importance in providing advanced, effective solutions for skin and hair health, appealing to consumers seeking both immediate and long-term benefits.

Whether you are looking for regular or specialized ceramides for personal care, DKSH's international teams of technical specialists are always within your reach to collaborate with and develop innovative solutions for companies looking to tap into the growing consumer needs. Contact us to learn more about our products and capabilities to support your business growth.